Meghalaya, North East
The Unbelievable Mawphlang Sacred forest of Meghalaya
25 kms from Shillong lies a lush green paradise that is a portal into another world. A step into the Mawphlang sacred forest of Meghalaya is like a step into an unknown kingdom – one full of mysteries, magic and the eccentric.
Meghalaya literally means ‘abode in the clouds’ and it is as heavenly as its name. Heavy rainfall and its sequestered status have ensured that its magic and mythology remain untouched. Throughout the East Khasi Hills and the Jaintia Hills district, sacred forests run abundant, but few have achieved the status of the Mawphlang Sacred Forest.
Covering about 192 acres, the Mawphlang Sacred Forest was originally home to the Blah Community. A clan war ensued and the Hima Mawphlang won, following which a search for a leader began. The clan settled upon a woman who was revered and said to possess even supernatural gifts. However, she refused and instead promised to make her son the leader provided the Gods gave her a sign. She planted some saplings inside the forest. Lore has it that she believed that if the saplings survived for three years, her son was meant to be their leader. The saplings flourished and her son took on the title.
In a culture steeped in lore and fables, this is but one instance of the rich history behind every aspect of their lives.
The resident Khasi tribe holds the forest and its deity sacred and bestows the forest with a distinct entity. The local deity called Labasa is seeked for blessings in times of any mishap or illness. Locals believe that the deity takes the form of a leopard or lion to come and save them from any misfortune. Routine sacrifices are performed on monoliths inside the forest to keep the deity appeased.
The sacred grove in the forest
Indeed, monoliths smatter the forest with their imposing presence. Locals even have a festival dedicated to the monoliths. As the local guide points them out, one cannot help but sense a mysterious aura of power around these sacrificial spots. This aura of the mysterious and the metaphysical is an almost eerie presence throughout the forest. One sometimes senses movement or sounds where there is seemingly nothing. The effect is almost skin-crawling which is perhaps fuelled by the legends surrounding the Mawphlang Sacred forest. However, there is no danger as long as a local guide accompanies you. The forest is the natural habitat of the locals and they know its spots and secrets like the back of their hand.
The forest is strewn with monoliths
It is not just the megalith strewn trail that one should visit this forest for. It is also just the thrill of being in the wilderness, where even sunlight enters timidly. The dense deciduous trees form a netting of a verdant ceiling and the silence echoes powerfully. Many plants are considered medicinal with claims that some can treat tuberculosis and cancer as well. A walk through the forest is an experience as nerve-wracking as exotic.
The most interesting folklore however, is the claim that locals make. According to them, what stays in the forest must remain in the forest. People are not allowed to take even a leaf or a twig out of the forest. As laughable as it might sound, this is taken very seriously. It is said that some Army men wanted to take some logs from the forest many years back. They loaded their truck with the logs but the truck refused to start. Locals say that even people who have tried to take back a leaf have faced some mishap. Whether true or not, the fables are enough to scare people. It is best to respect local sentiments and steer clear of anything that could cause problems.
A trip to the North-East would be quite incomplete without a walk through the Mawphlang Sacred Forest, with its deep woods and strong legends. The forest is open between 9 a.m.- 4.30 p.m. The best time to go is around September-October. Monsoons are best avoided in the wettest state of the country. Be sure to appoint a local guide to get the most out of your visit, as otherwise it may all seem bland and uninteresting without the accompanying stories.
The Mawphlang Sacred Forest remains a hidden oasis of biodiversity and a sanctuary for several endemic species. Visit it for the raw wilderness, the uncanny fables and the aura of the supernatural that surrounds it. Use it as a chance to interact with the local Khasi people – warm but in veneration of their Labasa.
A walk through the forest is a sublime experience
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