Binsar, Kumaon, Stays, Uttarakhand
Mary Budden Estates – Colonial Charm In The Lap Of Luxury
Deep within the heady woods of the Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary, at a height of 8000 ft, one is enthralled to discover pure luxury in the form of the Mary Budden Estate. This luxury is not just one of plush settings and first-class service, although Mary Budden provides both. It is also the luxury of anonymity and tranquility. It is a walk down memory lane as one is reminded of colonial times.
Indeed, the boutique homestay, with its opulent cottages, teems with rich history. Originally belonging to a British lady from the 19th Century, after whom the estate is named, it was purchased by Delhi-based artist and writer, Serena Chopra. Mary Budden was a philanthropist and social worker who set up orphanages, a school for girls and a refuge for homeless women. The present owners have kept the legacy intact and restored the rooms to their former glory.
Catch a glimpse of the wildlife at Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary
Sit underneath the sunshine and read
Consisting of 2 cottages – the original Mary Budden Cottage and the recently built Rhododendron Cottage, the property does not display any advertising signs. Perhaps it is rightly called ‘Kumaon’s best kept secret’ for this very reason. The 2 cottages both have the same colonial splendour and charm. Right from the pine wood ceilings to the lavish bathrooms, the bukharis or the sprawled out living area, the place screams grandeur but in a subtle lived-in way. One could get used to this style of living and definitely yearns for it.
Waking up on a well made bed to the sound of the 250 species of birds to be found in the forest, stretching your legs on the front porch and sipping on your morning coffee while gazing at the oak and rhododendron trees or the far off peaks – a life so full that one forgets shopping trips and party nights.
The Mary Budden Cottage has been restored to a luxurious colonial house
The newer Rhododendron Cottage is full of large windows
Days here simply pass by as one is inclined to do nothing but laze underneath the sun with a pot of tea and a good book. There are hikes and treks to be embarked upon and trails to uncover. One can go bird-watching or wildlife spotting. On your return, you will be treated to a sumptuous meal, cooked by the in-house chef using fresh garden produce. The breads and pastries here will surpass the city loaves you’re used to. Everything, including the food, is accompanied by so much warmth and genuine pleasure that even the simplest things take on a poignant meaning.
The colours and sounds of Kumaon are special. The azure sky is brilliant as one lies under an oak tree, gazing up through the pattern of the leaves. The warm yellow slivers of sunlight slice through the foliage and illuminate everything in their path. The red of rhododendrons is scattered everywhere and reminds one that red is also the colour of celebration, not just bloodshed and rage. The sounds are mostly sounds we’ve stopped hearing because of the din of our lives. The chirping of the birds, the quietude of the mountains at night under the hanging lanterns, the sounds of the village-help gently going about their work.
There is a refreshing silence here and disturbing that seems almost like sacrilege. The silence is sacred to Kumaonis and will be to you as well.
Eating outdoors is a superb experience
Enjoy a candle light dinner with your partner
Or enjoy a meal indoors with family
When one thinks of a homestay, one seldom associates it with this level of lavishness. Yet, Mary Budden Estates offers the rare combination of luxury and homeliness. They recently also started a village homestay in the village of Dalar nearby. The two-room mud bungalow is perfect for those seeking a more rustic experience. Located in the village of Dalar, where only 10 families reside, it is impossible to not be swept up and feel like a local. The house is covered in vine-flowers and lies amidst lemon, orange and fig trees.
The artistic Dalar Village Homestay
When city life threatens to take you over completely, when all you crave is the crisp mountain air and the quietude and when you want to do it in the most plush settings, Mary Budden Estates will be the perfect choice. For a while, feel like you belong in a different era, a simpler existence and take off for this beautiful property.
WHAT TO DO IN BINSAR
DAY 1
Arrive into Mary Budden Estate after a long drive from Delhi. Check in and relax. Enjoy a night around the bonfire or in the cosy family room.
Shop nowDAY 2
Hike up to the marvellous Zero Point in the Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary. Spot various varieties of birds and flora. The point offers breathtaking views.
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DAY 3
Spend the day visiting the nearby villages to get an authentic taste of local life. Alternatively, drive through thick pine forests and visit the Jageshwar Dham Temple.
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Absolute Networks, Mumbai
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Friends from SriLanka
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Clifford Chance, Delhi
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KPMG, Bangalore
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Symbiosis Law School, Mumbai
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Singapore
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Assistant Director, Jurong Town Corporation, Singapore
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