There is an image everyone envisions as soon as they picture the Himalayas. There are the snow covered peaks in the distance, rolling hills and meadows where animals graze, a gushing river flowing through the valley and the sunlight netting through deodars and pines. There is also the deafening silence of the pristine atmosphere. A complete dissociation with the cacophony of city lives. At Sonaugi Homestead, this is almost achieved.
Heading to Shimla or Manali is no longer the same experience as it used to be, with tourists crowding the town centers and hotels after hotels burgeoning to take advantage of it. In such circumstances, one yearns for the image that one had imagined. And it can be found.
At a slight distance from Kullu, there is a homestead that resides in a crevice of silence and warmth. Located in Sonaugi Village, named after the golden wheat that the land bestowed on villagers, is the Sonaugi Homestead. At once, entering into the village transports one into the land of their dreams – exactly as one had imagined. The first thing one notices is the silence that pervades the village – an untouched slice of heaven.
As one emerges from their rooms on a dew-drops laden morning, the sight of the Himalayas rewards them. The house has been built in the traditional kathkuni style of architecture with plenty of wood and stone. The 5 rooms are cosy and comfortable with german bukharis to keep them warm even when it is snowing outside. There is a feeling of home with all amenities provided without losing the traditional touch of the region. The bathrooms are modern with running hot and cold water. The main highlight, however, is the old style ‘dhuna’ or the living space around the fireplace with cushions and benches strewn around it.
The homestead itself seems right out of a postcard with trellises of vine and flowers framing it. There are sprawling meadows where dogs run amok. There are thickets of deodar on three sides and an apple orchard on one. One simply has to take a book out of their small library and bask in the sun while munching on an apple to feel fulfilled. This is the charm of Sonaugi, a slow decadence of spending the days doing nothing but unwinding in the crisp mountain air. There are plenty of hikes and trails to embark upon and a hike to Janna village is highly recommended. Janna is one of the oldest villages in the region and is sparsely populated. The walk to the Beas river takes 20 minutes and is a delightful path lined by cedars.
The homestead is owned by Vikram and Bhavna Sharma, a couple that plans to make it their retirement home. Until then, it remains open to visitors who are greeted by an ever smiling caretaker. Guests are encouraged but not forced to wake up early to enjoy the beauty of the surroundings in the morning. The morning chai underneath moist blue skies while huddled in a shawl make for very pleasant memories.
The earthy rooms
Quiet corners through the homestead
The food at Sonaugi Homestead is also much like the rest of it – simple and local. They believe that guests get to sample enough fancy dishes back home and focus on simple signature dishes. Breakfast is a mix of cereal, egg, sandwich, paranthas and juices and fruit. Lunches and dinners are simple dal, roti, rice and vegetables using organic produce. Mohan, the cook, rustles up great fusion soups that are served in the evening under the cedar trees. The food is mainly vegetarian in keeping with the energy of the place and local Buddhist shaman sentiments.
The food is served in the common area and is a highlight
There is a fluid positive energy that surrounds Sonaugi Homestead – guests are hungry like never before, sleep more peacefully than ever and love the taste of the water. The owners do not want the place to be overcome by hordes of tourists and welcome only those who do not want to rush over the experience. The entire charm of the place is in its slow, relaxed pace and if that is what you crave, then Sonaugi Homestead is perfect.
WHAT TO DO IN SONAUGI
DAY 1
Reach Sonaugi by evening and spend the evening relaxing around the fireplace or in the open.
Shop nowDAY 2
Take the kutcha road up to Janna village, one of the oldest in the region. Spend the day strolling about and have lunch at Maniram Dhaba, next to a waterfall.
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DAY 3
Walk of 3 hours through the Deodar trees and small villages will get you to a village of Nashala. Proceed by vehicle to see Naggar Castle and Roerich Art Gallery at Naggar. Return late in the afternoon.
Shop nowDAY 4
Drive 1.5 hours to Manali and visit the Hidimba Temple and colourful markets of Manali Mall road.
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Absolute Networks, Mumbai
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Friends from SriLanka
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Clifford Chance, Delhi
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KPMG, Bangalore
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Great to see the know-how of the Unwind Outdoor team regarding every aspect of the Srinagar - Leh - Chandigarh self drive trip. From weather conditions, to road conditions, to health/clothing requirements, and also driving instructions - Sunil and Manpreet are warm, meticulous and knowledgable. Villa Himalaya in Sonamarg surpassed all our expectations and ensured that our expected standards for the rest of the trip were extremely high.
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Symbiosis Law School, Mumbai
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Singapore
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Assistant Director, Jurong Town Corporation, Singapore
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We travelled as a couple & completed a self drive trip from Delhi-Jammu-Srinagar-Kargil-Leh-Nubra-Pangong-Tso Moriri-Sarchu-Manali-Delhi. Itinerary was meticulously designed to be a mix of adventure and comfort. Hotel choices were best. Support was available at all points in case of emergency.Vehicle provided was top notch. Thanks to Mr. Sunil Kapoor for personally putting in efforts to maintain such high standards.
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Barclays Bank, Bangalore
